Haslemere & the Spitalfields Weavers Part 2

The dramatic decline of the Spitalfields silk-weaving industry clearly had far-reaching consequences for the large numbers of workers previously employed in silk weaving.  In 1895, two years after Liberty's article announcing the revival of Spitalfield silk-weaving (in my previous post, here), it seems that Spitalfields silk weaving went into receivership: "Daniel Walters and Sons, of Braintree, had ceased operations... The Official Receiver made an offer of their mills, plant and machinery to Warner and Sons.  The offer was accepted, and after the purchase, about sixty families of London silk weavers were at once removed from Spiltalfields to Braintree.  Many, however, refused to leave London, and for some years both factories were kept going: but finally the Hollybush Gardens factory was closed and all the work concentrated at the Braintree mills. " (Warner, Frank, The Silk Industry of the United Kingdom, Dranes, 1921).

Female silk-weavers at work in Spitalfields, 1893,
reproduced from Getty Images

Luther Hooper was wood engraving and designing wallpapers for Messrs Carlisle and Clegg, when in 1884 he moved with his family from Stoke Newington to Bentley, near Ipswich.  Hooper's mother originated from Long Melford, Suffolk so this move may have brought him nearer family.  It was whilst at Bentley that Hooper, then aged 35 "studied the history, principles and technique of weaving and assisted in the formation and development of The Ipswich Silk Weaving Company, a hand-loom silk-weaving firm". (Suffolk Painters.co.uk)  I expect that Hooper was learning silk-weaving from Spitalfield silk weavers in Ipswich, or Huguenot weavers, as Ipswich was the first Huguenot settlement.  Hooper says in his autobiography "I throughly mastered the techniques of weaving rich silk damasks, brocatelles, velvets, etc. and the preparation of designs for the loom.  This study of the craft enabled me to be of some use to the Art and Craft movement, in which I became interested about that time." (Luther Hooper biography online).

Spitalfield weaver's workshop, June 1885,
Tower Hamlets Local History Collection,
reproduced from Spitalfieldslife.com

It seems that Edmund Hunter brought some Spitalfield silk weavers to Haslemere.  Meg Andrews writes that Hunter "employed four or five men including a master weaver, who had probably been trained in silk weaving at Spitalfields, London." (Meg-Andrews.com)  Although Spitalfield weavers might also have been amongst the "three skilled weavers who had been with me (Luther Hooper) at Ipswich" (Luther Hooper online biography) that Hooper brought to Haslemere.

Various references can be found to the work of Spitalfields Weavers in Haslemere in the early 1900s. In 1924 Studio: International art (vol. 88, no.379, October 1924, p.221) wrote that “The St. Edmundsbury Weaving Works were started at Haslemere in 1901 for the weaving of rich damasks and brocades, in the Spitalfields tradition, by Edmund Hunter, then a designer of wallpapers, fabrics, etc.”

In 1904 the Luton Times and Advertiser (5 February 1904) reported that "In acknowledging the gift of a piece of silk woven at Haslemere Mr. Chamberlain expresses hopes for a revival of the British silk-weaving industry under Freer Trade."  This appears to be a reference to Joseph Chamberlain MP, Secretary of State for the Colonies.

Providing a fuller account of this event, the Leamington Spa Courier (5 February 1904) reported on

“A Vanished Industry

Mr. Chamberlain has sent the following letter to Mr. Edmund Hunter, Bury St. Edmunds, who recently represented to him a piece of silk designed by himself and woven at the St Edmondsbury Weaving Works, Haslemere, Surrey. : Highbury, Moor Green, Birmingham, January 25th, 1904.  

Dear Sir – I have had the honour to receive through Lady Dorothy Nevill a piece of silk which I understand was woven by a descendant of the original Spitalfields weavers, and have much pleasure in accepting the compliment.  I have long regretted the almost entire disappearance of this once great and successful industry, and I sincerely hope that some change may yet be made in our fiscal system which will help to restore it.  I know of no special reason why English weavers should not be able to compete with foreigners on fair terms, and the silk industry has appeared to me to be one of those which should receive early consideration.  I hope every means will be taken to bring the circumstances and conditions of the trade to the knowledge of the Tariff Comission now sitting, and that it may be possible to work out a scheme which will give back to our English weavers some of the opportunites they have lost owing to our fiscal system.  

I am, yours faithfully, J. Chamberlain."

The Dove Cross, designed by Edmund Hunter and Hand-woven in Silk
by the St Edmundsbury Weaving Industry, Studio International (1906,p.246)

In 1906 Studio International (p.246) reported on ""The “Dove Cross” in Mr. Edmund Hunter’s fine design, which we reproduce on this page, forms the central ornament in an altar frontal chosen from his work by Queen Alexandra for the private chapel at Windsor Castle.  It was executed for Her Majesty in white and gold silk brocade by the St. Edmundsbury Weaving Industry, established by Mr. Hunter some three years ago at Haslemere, in Surrey.  The work was woven on hand-looms by some of the historic Spitalfields silk weavers, brought to Haslemere by Mr. Hunter to start and develop his industry, in which he aims at uniting artistic design with better craftsmanship than can be obtained by the use of the power loom."